Expert Q&A: James Boehmer

Friday, August 31st, 2007

Expert Q&A: James Boehmer

Hi GLAMonistas!

Meet James Boehmer, NARS Senior Stylist, and another NY fashion week backstage staple. Read about his history in the beauty industry, tips, and more!

When did you fall in love with makeup?
I first fell in love with makeup as a young boy. I’ve always been a lover of pop culture. One of my earliest makeup memories was the way Olivia Newton-John looks in the movie Xanadu. To this day, it’s still one of my favorite makeup looks- glowing peachy skin, glossy eyes, lots of mascara, and a soft lip.

What was your favorite decade for makeup?
I loved the raw and overt glamour of the ‘70s, as well as the elegance of the ‘30s. I think something pretty amazing happened with the ‘70s “biba” girl- she was sort of a modern day interpretation of the ‘30s. In the past, it seems like women felt more comfortable making more of a statement with their makeup. The ‘90s trained women to be more natural. But in my opinion, it’s only makeup–it should always be fun. Otherwise, why bother?

Which celebrities have you worked with in the past, and do you work with anyone regularly?
I generally do more fashion work, and I’ve been lucky to work with some of the best models in the industry. My background in makeup is actually film. I worked on a very low budget independent short film called “Night” with Amy Sedaris that was quite memorable, since I’m a huge fan of hers. I’ve also worked with Sofia Coppola, and I’m also a huge fan of her films.

When brainstorming with a client on a look for an awards show, what’s the most requested look?
I think most women that frequently walk the red carpet are already very aware of the image that they want to portray. I think the most important thing is to always make the woman look beautiful, and to look like herself. Most women don’t feel too comfortable when they venture outside of their comfort zone, whatever that may be.

What are your top five beauty tips?
Skin, skin, skin, skin and skin! Beauty always starts with the skin, not only how you take care of it, but also the textures that you can create with the complexion as the canvas. I spend the most time perfecting a client’s complexion because it is the most important thing to get right. On flawless skin, any makeup, or even no makeup at all, looks amazing. Grooming the eyebrows and curling the lashes are two steps that many women skip, yet they’re small details that make a big difference with the finished look.

What’s the one thing women can do to look younger?
A “no-makeup look” can be unflattering to women of a certain age because it can be dulling and draining. Color becomes more important as we age, but the color should be sheer and transparent, not heavy and matte. Bold colors in sheer textures on the lips and cheeks such as NARS Lipstick in Flaming Dust, NARS The Multiple in Maui, or NARS Cream Blush in Turkish Red or Cactus Flower, are bright without being heavy and help portray a more youthful image.

How can someone look great in an instant?
NARS Cream Blush or NARS The Multiple are great for instant radiance because they are so easy to use. To quickly brighten the face, blend a cream such as NARS Cream Blush in Penny Lane or Gueule de Nuit, or NARS The Multiple in Maldives or Copacabana, along the smoothest parts of the face–¬¬¬the tops of the cheekbones, the temples, and the bridge of the nose–for a healthy flush. Again, I can’t stress the importance of the skin enough. Take extra time to make sure skin is flawless, and everything else will look amazing.

What items should every woman have in her makeup bag?
A cream blush of some sort, to touch up color on the skin without it getting cakey; a translucent pressed powder to absorb shine, especially between the eyebrows, the chin, and in laugh lines; a lip color, that’s sheer or glossy and easy to maintain throughout the day; a lip balm; and an eyelash curler, because even if you’re not wearing mascara, curled lashes make the eye look more awake and open.

What are your favorite drugstore brands? Favorite department store/salon brands?
I live for Evian Vaporisateur! It’s great for refreshing the complexion after a long day. I’m obsessed with lip balms and am always looking for the perfect one- my favorite is probably Smith’s Rosebud Salve. Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel is a favorite product of mine–it keeps the skin incredibly soft and gives a great sheen. Of course, NARS is the best for its color and pigmentation, and also makes some amazing skincare products—I love NARS Rain Lip Treatment, and NARSskin aqua gel hydrator is an overnight mask that hydrates the skin and imparts luminosity with one application. For other brands, I also love Clé de Peau, Amore Pacific, and Själ for skincare. I can’t seem to commit to a shampoo, but I love the classics like Phyto, and new favorites like Malin + Goetz.

What’s the biggest mistake women make when doing or buying makeup?
A woman will never make mistakes if she is being honest with herself. If she feels she looks great, she does! She knows better than anyone. She should go with her instincts or imagination, and if she does that, nothing she wears is ever a mistake.

What should a woman NEVER leave home without - or without doing?
A woman should never leave the house without applying a product with SPF. Both NARS Makeup Primer with SPF and NARS Powder Foundation with SPF/PA++ both offer protection from UVA and UVB rays. Sun protection is so important; we only have one chance with the skin we have!

What’s the easiest way to transform your look from day-to-night? What products are needed?
For an easy day-to-night transformation, pick one feature to intensify. For a dramatic eye, take an eyeliner pencil such as NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Black Moon, London, or Kalisté, and smudge it around the lash line, top and bottom. Add a few coats of mascara, and you’re ready to go. For more impact on the lips, keep the color matte, precise, and bold—NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencils are great for this look. And, remember: the rest of the makeup should be minimal if you are making a strong statement on the lips.

What’s your advice (or special tips) for women who want to imitate a look you’ve created for one of your celeb clients?
I think that women should bring out their favorite part of themselves. If you have amazing eyes, learn ways to play them up. I think we all spend too much time comparing ourselves to people in the public eye; instead we should put our best face forward! Makeup should be about expressing personal style, not imitating someone else’s.

Can you recommend any products that promote healthy skin for all skin-types?
Skincare should always follow your specific skin concerns, not skin types–there is no such thing as “normal” skin. By carefully addressing skin concerns, one can control any problems, and maintain healthy skin. Also, effective cleansing and protecting the skin is more important than harsh products that try to change the chemistry of the skin that you have. I am also a big believer in facials. Basic deep cleansing facials and massage keep your skin in great shape.

Which lines have the best products in your opinion?
NARS truly has everything under the sun–amazing skin care (my favorites are the NARSskin aqua gel hydrator, mud mask, hydrating moisture cream, and gentle cream cleanser), and the most beautiful color to work with. There are no limits with NARS’ colors, and I love that there is something for everyone within the line.