Paris fashion week kicks off tomorrow, but before we zoom in on the City of Light’s shining stars, let’s review the high notes of Milan fashion week:
Alberta Ferretti
Mighty Aphrodite indeed! Putting a sporty twist on her signature Grecian style, Alberta Ferretti turned out short dresses in draped silk jersey, two-color togas, and watery prints that resembled Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The collection’s few refined flourishes—like the clusters of dark crystals which looked a bit like Julius Caesar’s crown—gave good reason to go Greek for spring.
Burberry
The Burberry show opened with hair color chameleon Agyness Deyn (our It-Girl) waltzing out with jet-black hair—the first surprise of many to be sent down the runway. The edgy English Rose who had romanced Christopher Bailey for so many seasons seemed to have been banished, and in her place came a feistier ‘80s heroine. Spring’s sexy Burberry girl prefers clingy ruched dresses, bold lace-up coats, and the kind of studded belts and bags which epitomize tough luxe.
D Squared
Sure, some designers many have a few A-list pals sit in their front row but Dan and Dean Caten had Rihanna walk in their spring runway show. While the siren proved to be the inspiration for the show—which like her new Shut Up and Drive video featured a body shop full of flashy cars and oiled-up boys—the flashy ‘60s-feeling collection was geared toward the party-hopping set. (Editor’s Note: No mainstream fashion press picked up on the fact that the Canadian designers co-opted her video. What, are they not watching the same Euro MTV I am? If not, they’re clearly missing out. ) The designers’ barely-there dresses, perky shifts and Elizabeth Taylor-worthy caftans recalled Hollywood’s big-haired heyday when hostesses served wine spritzers, Valium, and pâté at their VIP pool parties.
Dolce & Gabbana
The Sicilian designers aren’t exactly known for being conservative, but for spring, the duo tempered their seductress styles with thoughtful arty accents. For day, the designers showed sculptural brocade minis and minimalist dresses in nearly transparent silk— just the thing to spice up the workplace instantly. The showstopper gowns—voluminous tulle constructions doused with colorful paint washes—made the biggest splash on the runway, and would have the same effect on the red carpet.
Emilio Pucci
For spring, Matthew Williamson tinkered with Emilio Pucci’s iconic pastels, amping up the hues by applying them in bolder, wider swaths than usual. His exploratory mood brought him to the American West for inspiration, which helps explain his tinkering with tribal motifs, feathers, and fringe. The most dramatic results are suited to adventurous types who aren’t afraid to take a fashion risk.
Emporio Armani
While technically the little sister line to Armani’s blockbuster Giorgio line, the Emporio collection is more appealing to those who don’t have loads of red-carpet events in their date book. The collection featured many of the designer’s flourishes tempered for the 9-to-5 world—including jaunty black-and-white checks dresses, draped skirts, and long lady-like blazers—a series of sexy black sequined numbers seemed to suggest that working girls should have a wild night out on the town from time to time.
Fendi
It’s hard to say which piece of news from the house of Fendi generated more buzz: The fact that the house will present a runway show on the Great Wall of China next fall, that the Baguette bag just turned ten, or that Karl Lagerfeld introduced an unexpected ¾ silhouette for spring. The latter preoccupied the fashion set as the modest mid-calf length—which was also big in New York—became quite complex, complete with fly-away skirts, wide-belts, graphic prints and tiers of ruffles.
Gucci
The show was kicked off with a screening of David Lynch’s new Gucci perfume commercial, which reminded viewers that the house’s consists of so much more than just what’s shown on the runway. Spring added a new chapter to Gucci’s history of catwalk chic one that focused on Barbie-style dresses and skirts—i.e. cinched waist numbers with plenty of pouf—biker jackets, and streamlined plaid separates, all of which came with a layer of rockabilly gloss.
Roberto Cavalli
While his show featured an illuminated backdrop of Versailles, Cavalli skipped over the grandiose scenes in Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette film, and instead focused on the carefree moments the queen spent indulging in pastoral romps. (Editor’s Note: The runway show opened with Air’s Playground Lover track, which was featured in Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides; I wouldn’t have pegged the designer for being a Coppola fan, would you?) His long petticoat gowns, ‘70s calico silk blouses, floral stenciled trenches and fringe-accented separates made for a breezily sensual vibe.
Missoni
What’s not to love about the Missoni collection? Sexy-meets-sophisticated knits, festive looks covered in confetti-like sequins and pool party-perfect caftans appeal to a variety of tastes. And it doesn’t hurt that the soft hues and romantic cuts are flattering to nearly one and all.
Technorati Tags: Milan Fashion Week, Fashion Shows, Ferretti, Pucci, Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Missoni, Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry, Rihanna, Sofia Coppola
All images Wire except Missoni, Cavalli, Burberry, DSquared =Getty
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