Temperley, Marchesa, Derek Lam

Today, February 7th, is Charles Dicken‘s birthday. He would have been 196. The anniversary of this scribe seems as good a time as any to point out that there’s been some serious, Victorian undertones in the fall collections thus far. While not the moody, literal translations of the era’s style that romanced us a few seasons back, today’s covered-up ensembles form a new, modern sobriety.

Instead of her usual party fare, Alice Temperley unveiled more than a few head-to-toe noir looks which featured tough leather separates and bold-shouldered blouses. The savvy duo at Marchesa also opted to tone down several of their Oscar-worthy gowns, replacing last season’s opulent stunners with armor-like bustier dresses studded with rosettes. And last but certainly not least, Derek Lam sent his models down the runway with moderated black garb, ranging from duster coats to liquid velvet gowns and high-collar blouses. All darkly beautiful, the clothes call to mind a quote from birthday boy himself: “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…”

*Snaps = Wireimage