For the second month in a row, the Americans (especially her Zen-ness, Donna Karan) have clobbered the French and Italians in the ol’ magazine cover-credit olympics. Too bad the same can’t be said of our dollar versus their Euro…
Kate and Laura Mulleavy, as pictured in Vogue
Most months, its Vogue’s innovative and influential fashion spreads that turn heads. In April’s shape issue however, the magazine’s sophisticated body-issue stories carry more weight. (Yes, pun intended. And there’s more.)
Sandwiched between a “You Are Not What You Eat” story and a weight-training trend piece, there’s an unexpected story about the exercising adventures of Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sisters behind the inimitable Rodarte line. What was surprising about the piece was not the duo’s svelte “after” photo, but the premise that editors had suggested such a pedestrian, personal endeavor to these revered designers. Doing so seemed a bit like telling Lagerfeld he’d be able to read more easily without the dark shades, or asking Cavalli to lay off the cigars…and the vodka…and the 5 A.M. bedtimes: Of course it’s only natural to make some maternal, well-meaning observations but as Emily Post would certainly agree, the majority of those are best surfaced outside the professional arena.
However, it took just two minutes of reading the sisters’ dieting diary to unwrinkle my nose and unfurrow my brow. When viewed through the Mulleavy sisters’ dreamy eyes, even the mundane can be magical: Hoofing it around the block to burn calories is an opportunity to create fairy tales about anonymous houses. Time on the treadmill becomes a quest for music with spirit and kick. A holiday gingerbread bake-off isn’t a test of the dieting wills but a place to flaunt their ceaseless creativity. And that’s not the half of it. So pick up an issue today if you can–to read at the gym or more stylish locales. A rare gem on today’s tarnished newsstand, the story serves as an inspiration not on dieting or how to dress, but on how to live ones life with class and élan.
While the nominee’s for the American fashion industry’s favorite popularity contest awards were announced last night, today, in broad daylight, major labels are duking it out on the newsstand. Our savvy intern Erin took spent some QT with our mail bin to see which designer names graced this month’s covergirls. Review our chart below to see who comes out on top, and ponder if you will, this fashion factoid: Of 15 US magazines surveyed, only 25% of them featured American labels on the cover.
This week, the Central Martins students shuffled back to class after skipping out to see the London shows, and news of the Milan festivities slowly started trickling in. As in many previous seasons, the most interesting things happened off the runway–or rather around it. For instance, Cathy Horyn got kicked out of the Armani show, and told the world—in her inscrutable, matter-of-fact way—all about it. Betcha G.A. didn’t foresee that one!
Horyn herself may want to be on watch, as Elle’s Fashion-Know-It-All Anne Slowey has officially entered the blogosphere with her high-octane prose. New York Magazine, Fashionista, and even the Gray Lady herself, all welcomed Slowey (and her ass) with open arms. Judging by their praise, coming across a witty fashion editor is as rare and wondrous experience as stumbling upon a Balenciaga sample sale.
Those not engrossed in Slowey’s derriere had the opportunity to gaze at Lindsay Lohan’s, as New York Magazine played match-maker with both photographer Bert Stern and Lohan’s Marilyn Monroe-philia.
Many scoffed at the comparison, but fashion elite barely took notice. They were too busy gossiping over the fact that in the same publication, Carine Roitfeld compared her US counterpart to a puppet.
Meanwhile Miss Wintour was on hand in Milan to help The Costume Institute’s Harold Koda give journalists a sneek peak at the upcoming Superheroes exhibition. Observers were impressed with the creativity of the curation, but shocked that Wintour would wear the same Prada dress three times.
Speaking of Prada, Muiccia got her lace on which everyone seemed to unanimously–yet again–approve of. Even before getting their hands on the real deal, E-editors got crafty with the lacey little numbers, which is understandable as Photoshop is fun–even more than fashion.
Kate Moss in YSL’s Spring 2008 Manifesto
Milan runway scene is in full swing, but the fashion cognoscenti is withholding their enthusiasm (read: best outfits and most potent fete-going fuel) for next week, when the A-list models, editors, buyers, and hangers-on migrate to the City of Lights. To whet your appetite for what’s to come, take a sneak peek at round two of Yves Saint Laurent’s Manifesto.
First unveiled during the recent September shows, Stefano Pilati’s magazine-like publication will be distributed in London, Milan, New York, and (bien sur) Paris, before hitting Tokyo and Hong Kong, injecting a little dose of high fashion to sidewalks, subways, and streets. Coinciding with the launch, a public installation of life-size images from the Manifesto will land in select cities for one day only. (So keep your eyes peeled!)
While last season’s Manifesto starred Gisele Bündchen, the muse for this season’s Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin shoot is none other than Kate Moss herself. In the dream team’s photographs and film, Moss swans aroundFondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Pilati’s spring gear–complete with a mirrored star cuff. Surrounded by camera flashes, Kate shown peering in the glass window, a scene which resembles an inverted version of the model’s Top Shop window-dressing spectacle. Providing tantalizingly personal shots of her timeless highness, the YSL venture reminds us that whether we’re on the inside looking out or on the outside looking in, we’ll always be eager to watch Miss Moss. To get an eyeful, see below:
I like fashion. I like beer too. And I particularly like the Italian versions of both things. Fantastically enough, there’s a chance for me to celebrate both passions starting on February 1st when the Versace boutique holds its first ever keg-party. Kidding! (Although wouldn’t Donatella make the most excellent Alpha Kamma Alpha sister ever?! She can totally girl-down.)
Actually, Peroni Beer is teaming up with the folks at Vogue on 50 Years of Italian Style, an exhibition of 50 images from the past few decades which have captured the essence of la dolce vita. VIPs–like Lancome covergirl and Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann–will get to see the snaps starting 2/1 while everyone else can swing through on the following two days, starting on 2/2:
50 Years of Italian Style
Saturday, February 2 – Monday, February 4, 2008
10a.m.-6p.m. (except Monday which will be 10a.m.-3p.m.)
Location: Twelve 21 (West 21st Street between 5th and 6th)
Elle.com’s cute new blogger: Designer Alexander Wang…then and now
The generosity of fashion’s web gang never ceases to impress: While W Magazine is giving away luxe loot, Elle.com is giving a stylish soapbox—ie a guest blogger role—to designer Alexander Wang. You may know him for his sumptuous knits and downtown M-O-D staples, but after a few quick reads you’ll grow to appreciate the qualities that I admire most—including stellar wit, boundless energy, and excellent taste. Read on and should his insight inspire you to shop, you can find his latest pieces here.
*snaps from Alexanderwang.com
A few of the W Magazine freebies
It used to be that, if you were lucky, magazines would throw in a not-quite-cute-space-wasting freebie along with their subscription. I seem to recall that pink combs, bathing suit tops, and branded totes were among the top offenders. Anyhow today, W magazine, the original luxury tome, is upping the ante: To celebrate the launch of it’s spiffy new online site, wmagazine.com, the kind fashion folks are giving away some delectable designer gems including a Jimmy Choo clutch and a Marc Jacobs bag. To score this loot, scoot over to www.Wmagazine.com/go/bags pronto.
*Ok, not really but wouldn’t that be nice?
Being funny won’t get you very far these days: With the writers strike and all, comedy geniuses can’t earn a paycheck for their skills. However, thanks to the thoughtful folks at Nylon–who have experience with wallet-watching and trend-spotting–Judd Apatow would-bes can score luxe nailpolish with their sharp barbs. Simply submit your best joke and be eligible to win one of 10 bottles of Dior’s rare Deep Blue hue. It may not be a paycheck, but it’ll sure look good while twiddling your thumbs waiting for your union brothers (and sisters!) to come to an agreement.
At least according to Wallpaper Magazine’s 2008 Design Awards. The mag unveiled their honorees this morning, and Mr. Raf Simons of Jil Sander was among them. (A few of his fellow aesthetic all-stars include furniture designer Tokujin Yoshioka, New York’s The New Museum, and a TweezLight.) While many an industry insider would agree with Wallpaper’s fashion pick, the criteria with which these winners were decided upon isn’t exactly clear. Considering the venue and the winners, no doubt creativity weighed more heavily than commerce…but could celeb-approval have factored (however slightly) in as well?
Cate Blanchett wears Jil Sander at an Elizabeth premiere
Images: Elle.com/Wireimage
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